How to Plant a Tree

by Janet Johnson

When we send a beautiful new plant home with our customers we want to be sure they have all they need to know to assure that plant has a long and healthy life.  Below is the planting technique that has been used by my family for over 3 generations.

Planting a Tree

1) Select a tree that will grow well in your desired location and make sure it has plenty of room for the canopy and roots to grow and mature.  Consult with Country Gardens and Nursery if you need advice.

2) Clear all grass and weeds from the space where the tree will be planted for an area twice as big as the root ball. Water the tree 24 hours before planting.

3) Dig the hole at least twice as wide and deep as the root ball. This is the normal procedure for most trees, however, certain trees do need other planting treatments, consult with Country Gardens & Nursery staff when you purchase the tree.

If the soil you remove is healthy soil (dark & rich with nutrients) you can use it to plant the tree. If it is unhealthy soil (sandy, clay or rocky) get good loamy top soil for planting.  Fill good soil in the hole to the depth of the root ball. If the soil you dug out is acceptable fill it back into the hole, removing any rocks.  Most likely in Utah you will want to mix about 1/3-1/2 top soil * in with the native soil so the roots have an easy time growing in the first years. Digging out the native soil loosens the soil so the roots can grow easily through soil that is not compacted.

4) Fill the hole with water and stir the soil in with the water to saturate the soil in the hole.  This will help keep sensitive roots wet when the tree is first placed in the hole.  This step is optional.

5) Set the tree in the hole with the root collar (area just above the roots) flush with the natural grade.  Planting too deep is a leading cause of mortality in newly planted trees. Don’t pick up the tree by the trunk. Always handle by the container or root ball.

6) For most trees you will remove all foreign materials from the root ball. This includes wires, twine, cords, containers and non-biodegradable bags. If planting a tree with roots wrapped in burlap, remove as much of the burlap as possible. This allows for extension of space for the roots to easily spread out. Make sure no twine or cords are wrapped around the trunk of the tree. Some trees are not as stable as others or are too large and will need different handling procedures, consult with Country Gardens & Nursery staff when you purchase the tree .

7) Gently fill the hole with the rest of the soil that came out of the hole, or soil you have brought in for the planting. Settle the soil with ample water. Packing the soil damages and breaks fine roots.  

8) Stake the tree only if necessary. Stakes should not be left in place more than one year. This does not apply if you are staking the tree with four posts and a fencing material for deer protection.

9) Mulch around the tree two to three inches deep and up to but not touching the trunk.  Aged wood chips, pine bark, and leaf litter are great mulches. Mulching keeps soil temperature fairly steady, boosts soil moisture retention and keeps weeds away. It also assists to protect the tree from lawn mowers and weed eaters which can easily harm or destroy the cambium layer of the tree. Organic mulches add nutrients to the soil as they decompose.

 10) Water the tree daily for the first two weeks, but don’t over water. ** Water weekly thereafter depending on what time of year you are planting as well as wind and temperature. A newly planted tree requires six to eight gallons of water for every diameter inch of trunk—per week. A thorough soaking is much better than light, frequent watering as it allows the roots to grow deeper. 

11) Protect the tree from animals and humans. 

Staking to the ground a wire-mesh cage at least three feet in diameter and four feet tall can keep deer and livestock from eating your tree. It also can safeguard your tree from motorized weed-eaters, which can easily kill your tree.

12) Do not fertilize the tree during the first growing season.

Too much nitrogen will burn tender roots, slowing growth and delaying establishment. 

If you want more information, check out the Utah State University Extension Service’s article on planting trees. 

NOTES

*Good quality topsoil often contains decaying organic matter, rich in nutrients to feed your soil. Loam soil is a rich, loose soil containing a relatively equal mixture of sand and silt and a somewhat smaller proportion of clay, it has a loose texture when you scoop with your hand. While loam contains little or no organic matter, however, it is good because of its ability to retain water and nutrients. We recommend mixing top soil with equal amounts of organic mulch such as worm castings, mushroom compost or Nutra-Mulch.

** If all surrounding soil is clay, you will want to use a moisture gauge when deep soaking so as not to drown your trees. Country Gardens & Nursery carries water gauges in the spring and will be glad to advise you on how to use. For water gauges after spring, visit Valley Hardware on Main Street in Heber City

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